Not just Tea, Darjeeling is more in flavor

The Indian hillside resort is known worldwide for its exported beverage, but the surrounding region offers a taste of neighbouring Tibet, Tony Tharakan finds.

Darjeeling, for many people, means tea, but the eponymous hill resort nestled in the Himalayas in India's northeast is also a gateway to spectacular views of the world's third highest peak as well as a rare glimpse of snow leopards and red pandas.

There also are reminders of India's colonial past, including a narrow-gauge railway known as the “Toy Train”, which makes a tourist run into the hills under power of a steam locomotive.

Visitors willing to make the extra pilgrimage to Sikkim, the Indian state to the north of West Bengal, where Darjeeling is located, can get a taste of Tibetan culture without visiting the Chinese-ruled region.

The closest airport, Bagdogra, is 90km from Darjeeling.

Perched at an altitude of 2,134 metres, Darjeeling is said to have derived its name from Dorje-ling, which means “land of the mystic thunderbolt”.

The best time to visit is October to November or February to April. It's never too warm in Darjeeling and there is often a drizzle. Taxis ferrying tourists often jam the narrow lanes, and cabs sometimes dash across the rail tracks that run alongside, causing drivers of the slow-moving “Toy Train” to sound a warning hoot.

The World Heritage railway, opened in 1881, is a tourist magnet for a leisurely ride on narrow gauge tracks, offering splendid views of cloud-capped hillsides and people going about their daily routines.

Take the 8am joy ride from Darjeeling to Ghum, India's highest railway station at an elevation of 2,258m.

The two-hour return journey (for 400 rupees or €5.20) includes stopovers at a rail museum and a spiral rail loop with panoramic vistas.

It's advisable to book tickets online before you visit.

Backpackers and budget travellers can take a room at the government tourist lodge, next door to St Andrews, an Anglican church built in 1843. The well-heeled can spend their days at the Windamere, a heritage hotel that started as a boarding house for British tea planters in the 19th century. Room tariffs start at 9,500 rupees (€123) per night, with meals.

It also is possible to stay a night at some of the tea plantations.

One of the estates advertising rooms is the Glenburn Tea Estate & Boutique Hotel

From there you can catch a glimpse of snow-capped Mount Kanchenjunga, the world's third-highest mountain with an elevation of 8,586m.

Hundreds of tourists visit Tiger Hill, 13km from Darjeeling, for a magnificent view of the sunrise; some arriving as early as 4am to beat the rush.

Beware, though; the fickle weather often shrouds the mountain in a veil of fog.

For something more dependable, drop in at Glenary's bakery for their signature cakes and chocolates.

Enjoy non-spicy continental and Chinese fare in the restaurant on the first floor where an average meal for two would cost about 500 rupees (€6.50).

Try and get there early for dinner as service starts winding down at 9pm in this early-to-bed town.

On the pedestrian Mall road, try on hand-knitted sweaters, browse the myriad souvenir shops and buy some of Darjeeling's famous tea, plucked from the verdant estates that dot the hillsides.

Head to the Darjeeling zoo – tickets start at 40 Indian rupees (50 cents) – where the snow leopard and red panda are the pick of the lot.

Outside the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute and museum, next door to the zoo, stands a memorial to Tenzing Norgay, the first man to scale Mount Everest with Sir Edmund Hillary in 1953.

And for a spectacular view of the tea plantations, take a ride on the Darjeeling cable car ride (tickets start at 150 rupees or €2).

Kalimpong is a three-hour drive away, but on the way stop at Lovers' Meet for a breathtaking view of the confluence of the Teesta and Rangeet rivers.

Also take a break at Lamahatta and laze in a landscaped garden surrounded by fluttering Buddhist prayer flags.

Try chicken momos, or steamed dump-lings, served with pepper-hot sauce at the roadside stalls.
Perched at an altitude of 2,134 metres, Darjeeling is said to have derived its name from Dorje-ling, which means ‘land of the mystic thunderbolt’

In Kalimpong, don't miss Deolo Point for a panoramic view of the Himalayas.

If you are in the mood for adventure, the town is situated at an altitude of 1,200m and is a popular paragliding and river-rafting destination.

You also can see the imposing Mangal Dham temple or mingle with novice monks playing football at Buddhist monasteries.

The Lonely Planet tourist guides listed Sikkim as the best region to travel to in 2014 but foreign nationals need restricted-area permits to visit this northeastern Himalayan state bordering Tibet.

Gangtok, the hilltop capital at an altitude of 1,676m, is a four-hour drive away from Darjeeling. However, MG Marg, Gangtok's pedestrian-only main street and shopping district, is a tourist's delight, featuring a range of restaurants and a plaza that is its cultural hub.

Try the pastries at the Baker's Cafe; the view is a definite plus.

Dozens of budget and luxury hotels line the streets next to MG Marg.

City tours in ubiquitous taxis usually begin with the Ban Jhakri waterfall and picnic spot before moving on to the various monasteries that dot the hillsides.

The Enchey monastery, founded in 1840, is perhaps the most famous, with the entrance flanked by hundreds of Buddhist prayer wheels and flags printed with lines from scripture.

At the Namgyal Institute of Tibetology, visitors can pore over one of the largest collections of Buddhist literature and artefacts.

Monks light butter lamps and meditate at the Do-Drul Chorten pagoda complex next door. Ganesh Tok is a temple-cum-viewpoint, and in case you missed the sight in Darjeeling, it offers tourists another glimpse of Kanchenjunga.

Gangtok also has its own cable car, a 10-minute ride that offers a panoramic view of the town below.

Tourists to Sikkim will benefit from a new airport near Gangtok that is set to begin operations before 2016.

Times of Malta, Tony Tharakan

Drinking the pathetic, really morbid tea bag tea (I had run out of my regular Darjeeling tea) I got thinking about the character of a cup of good tea. It’s almost like wine. Sommeliers might go ga ga over their wine, the connoisseur of tea goes equally ecstatic over the perfect full bodied cup of tea.

Tea that has character, has taste, has the quite so perfect colour and aroma. It is not dense and thick but has that exact proportion of water and milk, giving it a texture that is so eminently “sippable” savouring it ever so slowly. You don’t ever gulp down a good cup of tea and so that brings me to the next point. Its best served in a china or ceramic cup, thats the ultimate in luxury.

 The golden reddish brown colour of the tea liquor enhanced with a few drops at the most, of milk, (the purist would frown on that I know) makes for a great cup of tea.

A great cup of tea can lift your mood, herald a good start to your day and not for nothing is there a special period of the day “Teatime” – a time that is devoted to savouring the queen of beverages.

While I might drool over the light flavor of the Darjeeling tea, I am not so fond of either green , jasmine , or other flavored varieties.

 Tea as a former colleague used to say, has to be infused; so the principle of the tea bag ( plunge it into hot water) according to him is “very, very wrong” . Water needs to be infused through tea leaves to lend to it that delicate colour and flavor and that heavenly texture.

And therefore it is pure blasphemy to eat anything heavy, like samosas and pakodas etc. with this cup of tea. Yes, lightly flavoured biscuits maybe Cream crackers go with it, but cream biscuits destroy the tea experience.

One might be so presumptuous as to say that the British, Chinese and Japanese were ‘superior intellects’, developing their unique tea ceremonies to honour and cherish a beverage that deserves every bit of the grandeur associated with these customs. But I guess it’s out of sync in this day and age. The closest we can get to it, is pouring our tea from ceramic teapots enveloped in warm tea cosies.

My tea fetish is reflected in the mementoes that I pick up on my occasional travels. While others hunt for artifacts, I’ve picked up anything associated with tea – like the China clay figurine used to test the temperature of the water for that perfect cup of tea. The Chinese as you know are very particular about their tea. Immerse it in a glass of boiling water and should it “pee” ie bubbles surface then its perfect for the tea. The oolong tea was another expensive prized souvenir from that China trip. Teapots, for me are another much sought after item - the more quaint, the better.

But away from the luxury that one associates with ‘Tea’, there is the grassroot connect of the humble “chai.” This ‘chai’ of late has acquired a political character and avatar of its own. “Chai pe charcha” “chaiwala” are concepts that have helped a political party and its leader establish a direct connect with the masses and catapulted him into office. That I guess should serve as an adequate lesson for those “Tea- totalers” who snigger at the power and daresay for me the “aroma” of Tea.

Business Standard